Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
