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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. However, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.