Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered train pulls into a spray-painted station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds gather.

It is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with round mauve grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of the city town centre.

"I've seen individuals hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of growers who produce wine from four hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots throughout the city. It is too clandestine to possess an official name so far, but the group's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.

City Wine Gardens Across the Globe

To date, the grower's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned artistic district area and over 3,000 vines with views of and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the world, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards assist urban areas remain greener and more diverse. They preserve open space from construction by creating long-term, yielding agricultural units within cities," explains the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, community, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Grapes

Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Across Bristol

Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of vintage from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the car windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established over 150 plants situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her child, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can make intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite on trend, but really it's reviving an traditional method of making vintage."

"When I tread the grapes, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown yeast."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Approaches

A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to Europe. However it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole challenge faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to install a fence on

Anna Bender
Anna Bender

A passionate gamer and tech reviewer with over a decade of experience in competitive gaming hardware analysis.